Stair Kits

Standard Kits

Includes a 3.50" OD center column with a 10" square ¼" thick base plate, formed landing, 11 - 12 gauge smooth steel treads, 11 ¾" square steel balusters, and a coil of 1 ¼" black vinyl handrail, 36" tall landing rail with ¾" balusters, standard red oxide primer finish, and all necessary fasteners and instructions.

All Wood Spiral Kit

Standard Wood Spiral Kit includes center column, base plate, (11) 1 ¼" wood treads, (12) 1 ¼" square wood balusters, solid oak handrail 1½" X 2", with all fasteners and instructions needed to assemble the stair. The wood spiral can be assembled around a twelve-sided solid oak column. The red oak treads are mortised and screwed into the center column. The balusters are attached to the end of the tread, and bolted into the fine curved top handrail. After assembly, the solid oak spiral stair kit looks like a fine piece of furniture.

Heavy Duty Kit

Standard Heavy Duty Kit includes a 3 1/2" OD center column, heavy duty 1/4" base plate, (11) 3/16" steel treads, (12) ¾" solid round steel balusters, with a machined bottom and milled top countersunk holes for attachments to the 1½" round steel handrail, continuous sleeve tread hubs, complete with fasteners and instructions of installation of the stair.

Standard Spiral Kit Options

[Call For All Wood or Heavy Duty Kit Options ]

Handrails
1-1/4" Round Steel, Alum., Brass	1-1/2" Round Steel, Alum., Brass
1-1/2" x 2" Square Solid Wood, Oak, Specify	2" Round Solid Wood, Oak, Specify

Balusters

3/4" Center Square or Round Steel, Alumn., Brass	3/4" Center 4" Spacing Steel, Alumn., Brass	3/4" Center with Collar Steel, Alumn., Brass	3/4" Center Spiral Steel	3/4" Center with Ornate Design Steel, Alumn., Brass

Treads

Checker Plate	Bar Grating	Continuous Sleeves Each Tread Sleeve Cut out to Exact Height * Metal closed ends optional
Filigree Pattern	Smooth Steel with Oak Overlay
Radial Grating	Traditional Pattern

Receiving your Order

When you receive your kit stair, unpack it and make sure you have received all of your parts according to your proposal order we have sent you. It will show you the number of treads; balusters; landing; handrail and guard rail.
( Fig. 1.a )

Tools needed for installation

There are no specialty tools needed for this installation.

You will need a drill & drill bits (1/8", 3/8", and 5/16"); hammer; level; measuring tape; flat head screw driver; a tri-square (optional) and small set of tools (wrenches and socket set).

Getting started

Step One:

Stand center column in the opening and slide treads, pan face down (flat surface up), onto the column.  The treads are all the same. Partially tread set screws into treads making sure to slide the landing on last. ( Fig.1.b )

Installing the stair

Step Two:

Slide the landing platform over the center column to the desired finish floor height. (If your stair takes a wood overlay lower the landing by that thickness of the wood overlay). Using the lag screws supplied, attach the landing flush with the finish floor. Level the center column and attach the base plate to the floor with anchors supplied. Next level the landing and tighten the set screws.  ( Fig. 2.c )

Step Three:

Starting with the top tread, place a main baluster in the slot closest to the landing and attach the baluster to the tread with a 1/4" x 1 1/2" carriage bolt, nut and washer supplied. Make sure that the flange on the top of the main baluster is facing away from the tread.   ( Fig. 2.d )

Step Four:

Align the top tread up to the proper riser height listed in the order. If your tread has wood overlay, lower the tread by the thickness of the wood overlay. The riser height is measured from the top of the landing to the top of the tread below. Next level your main baluster and bolt it to the landing and then level the tread and tighten the set screws on the sleeve. (Always tighten balusters bolts first and the set screws on the sleeve last)

See ( Fig. 3.e )

Step Five:

Slide the next tread up and follow the procedures in Step four. Continue this procedure with the remaining treads. The last baluster only has two holes 1" apart. Level it and fasten to tread and to the floor by using the 3/4" shoe and anchor bolts supplied.

Your stair should look like this ( Fig. 3.f )

Step Six:

Next lay your handrail on top of the balusters making sure you leave enough overlap on both ends of the rail to be trimmed off later. Starting with the second baluster from the bottom, drill a pilot hole with a small drill bit (1/8") from underneath the baluster into the handrail. Next slide the handrail to one side and drill a 3/8" hole into the pilot hole. Insert the toggle bolt with the washer into the baluster as shown in ( Fig. 3.g )

Then insert the toggle bolt into the handrail and loosely tighten the bolt.  Follow the same procedure for the balance of the treads working your way to the top baluster. Attach the bottom baluster last.

Fig. 4.h

Fig. 4. i

Step Seven

Cut the ends of the handrail approximately 1/2" away from the bottom and top baluster and insert plastic end caps.

See (Fig. 4.h) before
and see ( Fig. 4.i ) after

Step Eight:

The next process is to attach the landing rail or rails. Place the landing rail on the side of your stair which is required by your order and using the self drilling and tapping screws supplied, fasten the top of the landing rail to the center column at a position 36" above the landing. After the top of the landing rail is attached, drill a 5/16" hole in the outside rail post from underneath the landing slot and bolt with a 1/4" x 1 1/4" carriage bolt supplied.  ( Fig. 4.j )

Finish:

Check to see that all bolts and set screws are securely fastened.  Your stair is then finished and ready for painting.

 
Fig. 5. k

Fig. 5. l

Installing the wood overlay (Optional)

After you have installed the landing; treads; balusters and handrail and guard rail, it is time for the wood overlay.

(Make sure you have allowed for the thickness of the wood during the installation of your metal landing and treads).

Landing

Drill a 5/16" hole on top of the landing approximately 2" away from each corner and place wood overlay on top of the steel landing and fasten from underneath with the screws supplied. ( Fig. 5. k)

Treads

As before you will need to drill holes on top of the metal treads for the wood overlay. This time you will need to drill three 5/16" holes.

From the widest part of the metal tread drill a 5/16" hole approximately a 1 1/2" away at each corner.

Next drill a 5/16" hole at the smallest part of the metal tread by the pipe sleeve approximately 3" away in the center.

Place the wood overlay on top of the steel tread and fasten from underneath with screws supplied.

Follow the same procedure for the balance of the treads. ( Fig. 5.l )